The significance of nitrates in the aquarium is arguably less understood by fish keepers than the effect of ammonia and nitrites. Although nitrates are not directly lethal in the way ammonia or nitrites are, over time high levels of nitrate have a negative effect on fish, plants and the aquarium environment in general.
Effect on Fish
Fish will feel the impact of nitrates by the time the levels reach 100 ppm, particularly if levels remain there. The resulting stress leaves the fish more susceptible to disease and inhibits their ability to reproduce.
High nitrate levels are especially harmful to fry and young fish, and will affect their growth. Furthermore, conditions that cause elevated nitrates often cause decreased oxygen levels, which further stress the fish.
Nitrates and Algae
Elevated nitrates are a significant contributor to undesirable algae growth. Nitrate levels as low as 10 ppm will promote algae growth. Algae blooms in newly setup tanks are usually due to elevated nitrate levels.
Although plants utilize nitrates, if nitrates rise faster than the plants can use them, the plants can become overgrown with algae, ultimately leading to their demise.
Where Do Nitrates Come From?
Nitrates are a by-product of nitrite conjugation during the latter stages of the nitrogen cycle, and will be present to some degree in all aquariums. Detritus, decaying plant material, dirty filters, over-feeding, and over-stocking the tank, all contribute to increased production of nitrates.
Water used to fill the aquarium often has nitrates in it. In the United States, drinking water may have nitrates as high as 40 ppm. Before adding water to your tank test, it for nitrates so you know if the levels are unusually high in your water source. If nitrates are above 10 ppm, you should consider other water sources that are free of nitrates.
Desired Level
In nature nitrates remain very low, generally well below 5 ppm. In freshwater aquariums nitrates should be kept below 50 pm at all times, preferably below 25 ppm. If you are breeding fish, or are battling algae growth, keep nitrates below 10 ppm.
How to Reduce Nitrates
Unlike ammonia and nitrites, the bacteria that remove nitrates do not like oxygen rich environments. Therefore, conventional filters do not harbor the bacteria that remove nitrates. Although special filters exist that will remove nitrates, such devices are usually expensive compared to other filtration units. However, there are some steps you can take to keep nitrates low.
•Keep the tank clean – Waste ultimately produces nitrates. Cleaner tanks produce fewer nitrates in the first place.
•Don’t overfeed the fish – Overfeeding is a significant contributor to excess nitrates and other undesirable wastes, such as phosphates.
•Water changes – Performing regular water changes with water that has little or no nitrates will lower the overall nitrate level in the tank. RO/DI water is an excellent choice for keeping nitrate levels low.
•Keep live plants – Live plants utilize nitrates, and will help keep nitrates in check.
•Use nitrogen removing filter media – Instead of an expensive denitrator or special filter, use special media in the filter you have. Although they will not lower nitrates dramatically, if used together with other methods the net result will be beneficial.
Salt in a Freshwater Aquarium
Ordinary salt is a useful remedy for the prevention and treatment of several freshwater fish diseases. It assists in the healing of injuries, promotes formation of slime coating, improves gill function, reduces the uptake of nitrite, and is effective against some parasites.
Before you go overboard using salt, be aware that some of the same benefits can be achieved by using a stress coat product. Furthermore, some plants and species fish cannot tolerate salt, so it must be used with care. In other words, salt is a double-edged sword.
When To Use Salt
•Nitrite Poisoning - The addition of one half ounce of salt per gallon of water is beneficial in the prevention of nitrite poisoning in a newly set up tank. Keep in mind that scaleless fish cannot tolerate much, if any, salt.
•Parasites - Many parasites can be effectively treated with the use of salt, particularly Costia infestations.
When Not To Use Salt
•Scaleless fish - Scaleless fish, particularly Cordydoras, are very sensitive to salt. Even a small amount could harm them. Tetras are also somewhat sensitive to salt.
Contrary to popular view, it is not advisable to add salt to your aquarium on an ongoing basis unless the fish require brackish water conditions.
Type and Quantity of Salt
Common table salt is not suitable, API Aquarium salt is the best, as it is straight sodium chloride with nothing else added.
The quantity will depend on how and what it is used for. A dip is a short exposure that is useful for the eradication of parasites. For dips a 3% solution is generally used for up to a half hour.
Baths are essentially treating the entire tank, and are useful for treatment of stress, nitrite poisoning, as well as some parasites. Salt concentrations for a bath are lower, 1% or less, and are used for up to three weeks.
Performing a Dip
When treating parasites, a dip is the method of choice. Place four teaspoons of salt in a clean bucket, then slowly add one gallon of water from the aquarium, swirling it to dissolve the salt. Once the salt is completely dissolved, place the fish in the bucket for five to thirty minutes. Observe the fish closely, and if any signs of distress are observed, return the fish to the original aquarium immediately.
Performing a Bath
A bath is ideal when treating an entire tank for prevention of nitrite poisoning, or for reduction of stress.
For stress treatment, measure out one teaspoon of salt for each gallon if water in the tank. Using a small container, dissolve the salt in a small quantity of water taken from the tank. Once it is completely dissolved, slowly add the solution to the to the tank.
For treatment and prevention of nitrite poisoning, measure out three teaspoons of salt for each gallon of water in the tank. Using a small container, dissolve the salt in a small quantity of water taken from the tank. Once it is completely dissolved, slowly add the solution to the tank.
When using bath treatments, weekly water changes of 25% should begin one week after initial treatment. Do not add additional salt once bath treatments have begun
Before you go overboard using salt, be aware that some of the same benefits can be achieved by using a stress coat product. Furthermore, some plants and species fish cannot tolerate salt, so it must be used with care. In other words, salt is a double-edged sword.
When To Use Salt
•Nitrite Poisoning - The addition of one half ounce of salt per gallon of water is beneficial in the prevention of nitrite poisoning in a newly set up tank. Keep in mind that scaleless fish cannot tolerate much, if any, salt.
•Parasites - Many parasites can be effectively treated with the use of salt, particularly Costia infestations.
When Not To Use Salt
•Scaleless fish - Scaleless fish, particularly Cordydoras, are very sensitive to salt. Even a small amount could harm them. Tetras are also somewhat sensitive to salt.
Contrary to popular view, it is not advisable to add salt to your aquarium on an ongoing basis unless the fish require brackish water conditions.
Type and Quantity of Salt
The quantity will depend on how and what it is used for. A dip is a short exposure that is useful for the eradication of parasites. For dips a 3% solution is generally used for up to a half hour.
Baths are essentially treating the entire tank, and are useful for treatment of stress, nitrite poisoning, as well as some parasites. Salt concentrations for a bath are lower, 1% or less, and are used for up to three weeks.
Performing a Dip
When treating parasites, a dip is the method of choice. Place four teaspoons of salt in a clean bucket, then slowly add one gallon of water from the aquarium, swirling it to dissolve the salt. Once the salt is completely dissolved, place the fish in the bucket for five to thirty minutes. Observe the fish closely, and if any signs of distress are observed, return the fish to the original aquarium immediately.
Performing a Bath
A bath is ideal when treating an entire tank for prevention of nitrite poisoning, or for reduction of stress.
For stress treatment, measure out one teaspoon of salt for each gallon if water in the tank. Using a small container, dissolve the salt in a small quantity of water taken from the tank. Once it is completely dissolved, slowly add the solution to the to the tank.
For treatment and prevention of nitrite poisoning, measure out three teaspoons of salt for each gallon of water in the tank. Using a small container, dissolve the salt in a small quantity of water taken from the tank. Once it is completely dissolved, slowly add the solution to the tank.
When using bath treatments, weekly water changes of 25% should begin one week after initial treatment. Do not add additional salt once bath treatments have begun
Setting up a new African Cichlid Tank
Please follow this link on setting up a African Malawi Tank.
http://badmanstropicalfish.com/afcichlids_setup.html
http://badmanstropicalfish.com/afcichlids_setup.html
Gold Nugget Pleco
Gold Nugget Pleco $19.99
Article By: Brian Robinson
Species name: Baryancistrus spp.
Synonym:
none
none
Common name:
Gold Nugget Pleco, Gold Seam Pleco, L018, L081, L085, L177
Gold Nugget Pleco, Gold Seam Pleco, L018, L081, L085, L177
Family:
Loricariidae
Loricariidae
Order:
Siluriformes
Siluriformes
Class:
Actinopterygii
Actinopterygii
Maximum size:
Sources vary from 6" to 14". They are slow growers and few in captivity have reached anything close to the larger end of this range. The largest I have seen personally is approximately 8".
Sources vary from 6" to 14". They are slow growers and few in captivity have reached anything close to the larger end of this range. The largest I have seen personally is approximately 8".
Environment:
Freshwater
Freshwater
Origin:
Soft warm waters of the Amazon River system including the Amazon, Xingu , and Iriri rivers.
Soft warm waters of the Amazon River system including the Amazon, Xingu , and Iriri rivers.
Temperament:
Peaceful except with similar bottom dwellers.
Peaceful except with similar bottom dwellers.
Company:
Soft water species that also prefer higher temperatures are ideal tank mates. This includes many tetras, discus, and rams. Avoid other bottom feeders, mainly plecos, as these are very territorial and can even become vicious in defense of what they decide is their territory.
Soft water species that also prefer higher temperatures are ideal tank mates. This includes many tetras, discus, and rams. Avoid other bottom feeders, mainly plecos, as these are very territorial and can even become vicious in defense of what they decide is their territory.
Water Parameters:
Temp: 25-30C (77-86F), pH: 6.5-7.6, high water quality, stable pH, and high current are all preferred and even needed.
Temp: 25-30C (77-86F), pH: 6.5-7.6, high water quality, stable pH, and high current are all preferred and even needed.
Aquarium Setup:
Safe with live plants. Include driftwood for a sheltered hide area. Rocks can also be used in addition to the wood.
Safe with live plants. Include driftwood for a sheltered hide area. Rocks can also be used in addition to the wood.
Feeding:
Will take prepared foods. Although it does have a ventrally positioned suction style mouth and is partially herbivorous, it is more carnivorous than many other plecos. It is also a detritivore. May feed a little on the driftwood it uses as a shelter, making it even more important to have driftwood in the tank.
Will take prepared foods. Although it does have a ventrally positioned suction style mouth and is partially herbivorous, it is more carnivorous than many other plecos. It is also a detritivore. May feed a little on the driftwood it uses as a shelter, making it even more important to have driftwood in the tank.
Breeding:
High flow rate is vital. Difficult to sex until fully mature. Males tend to have a flatter forehead. As with most or all species of fish, the females are plumper when fully mature and in breeding condition. Once they have paired and in breeding with a suitable breeding site, the addition of a powerhead aimed at their cave is all that is needed.
High flow rate is vital. Difficult to sex until fully mature. Males tend to have a flatter forehead. As with most or all species of fish, the females are plumper when fully mature and in breeding condition. Once they have paired and in breeding with a suitable breeding site, the addition of a powerhead aimed at their cave is all that is needed.
I have had my gold nugget for about a year now. It started off in a 40high, moved to a 150, and is now in my 40breeder with my discus and a few other fish. There has always been driftwood in any tank it is in and this seems to be an important factor. Current is also important and even seems to be enjoyable for them. I found mine on the outflow of the Whisper filter multiple times. It had actually managed to swim up the current and sucked on to the plastic to remain in position. Mine currently hides under the driftwood directly in the path of the outflow of the Fluval 304 which is only about eight inches away. It does not seem to mind the Synodontis petricola that is also in the tank and hides next to the gold nugget. Mine, as with all my fish, is fed New Life Spectrum exclusively. I feed it the normal pellets, not the wafers.
Tips on Keeping Goldfish in a Bowl
A very important fact to remember when caring for goldfish, is that it is not a good idea to keep them with tropical fish. For one, they don’t eat the same foods. Secondly, goldfish like colder waters than tropical fish. In addition, goldfish can be threatened by tropical fish. The long flowing fins and the slow motion of the goldfish make them irresistible targets to many fast fin nipping tropical fish. The stress can be very traumatic.
Starting Right
For best results, you should start by filling your goldfish bowl with “aged” or “conditioned water” found in existing aquariums. Typically, goldfish come from waters that are alkaline and slightly hard. Most of the goldfish sold at Aquarium Adventure are pond raised. Tap water is suitable for them, but it should be “conditioned” to rid it of chlorine or chloramine prior to pouring it into the bowl. This will prevent damage to the gills of the goldfish. You will then need the right, healthy goldfish. Feeder goldfish, or “carnival goldfish” as they are sometimes referred, are generally not the fish of choice. An Aquarium Adventure Fish Specialist can help you select a good specimen.
As a general rule, you should not keep more than two (2) inches of fish per gallon of water. For example, a 2-gallon fish bowl should not house more than two, 2-inch long goldfish.
Feeding
It is very important to understand that goldfish do not tolerate tropical fish food well. Goldfish do not have a stomach. Food is absorbed as it travels through their intestines , so it must have a high alkaline content. Tropical fish food is too acidic for their digestive system. It is true that goldfish will eat tropical fish food, but they will reap very little nutritional benefit from it. Over time, feeding tropical fish food to goldfish will seriously affect their health and longevity. You must feed a designated Goldfish Food for best results.
Be very careful with your feedings. Overfeeding, especially in a small goldfish bowl, will cause the water to become cloudy and smelly from the accumulation of decayed food. This water will, in time, become harmful to the fish. When feeding, remember that less is best. A safe recommendation is to feed 2 to 4 pieces of flake or pellet food every other day.
Cleaning Your Goldfish Bowl
Since a goldfish bowl generally does not have a filtration system, you must be very careful when cleaning the bowl. Every 5 to 7 days, the fish keeper will need to pour the top 2/3 of the bowl water into a clean (uncontaminated) plastic or glass container. Then, carefully transfer the goldfish, using a net, into this holding container while the rest of the bowl is cleaned.
The remaining fish bowl water should be discarded. Once the bowl is empty, it can be rinsed out with fresh tap water. Never use glass cleaner, or any other chemical to clean the bowl, as these, even in trace amounts are toxic to the goldfish.
Once the fish bowl has been rinsed, 1/3 of the bowl can be filled with fresh tap water. Remember, the water must be conditioned to remove chlorine and chloramine. The water should be at room temperature or cooler. Goldfish are cold water fish, and prefer water temperature in the low 60’s. Carefully, pour both the goldfish and the old water back into the fish bowl. It is best to only fill the bowl 3/4 full. This allows for a larger water surface area, providing your fish with more oxygen. Your fish will breathe easier.
Goldfish - A Brief History
Although records of the domestication of the goldfish date back over 1,000 years, it was during the Chinese Ming Dynasty (1368 to 1643 A.D.) that goldfish became so popular that they were taken from their natural pools and maintained indoors in the beautiful pottery bowls of this period. In the 1500’s, the goldfish made its appearance in Japan. In both China and Japan, distinct species were developed to reflect the tastes of the two cultures. The Chinese developed extreme forms: the lion head, the celestial, the telescope, and the pom pom to name a few. The Japanese on the other hand directed their efforts toward developing graceful “swimming flowers” with long fins and colors that are best appreciated when viewed from above. Today, goldfish enthusiasts have an amazing array of colors, scale structures, and body shapes from which to choose.
Starting Right
For best results, you should start by filling your goldfish bowl with “aged” or “conditioned water” found in existing aquariums. Typically, goldfish come from waters that are alkaline and slightly hard. Most of the goldfish sold at Aquarium Adventure are pond raised. Tap water is suitable for them, but it should be “conditioned” to rid it of chlorine or chloramine prior to pouring it into the bowl. This will prevent damage to the gills of the goldfish. You will then need the right, healthy goldfish. Feeder goldfish, or “carnival goldfish” as they are sometimes referred, are generally not the fish of choice. An Aquarium Adventure Fish Specialist can help you select a good specimen.
As a general rule, you should not keep more than two (2) inches of fish per gallon of water. For example, a 2-gallon fish bowl should not house more than two, 2-inch long goldfish.
Feeding
It is very important to understand that goldfish do not tolerate tropical fish food well. Goldfish do not have a stomach. Food is absorbed as it travels through their intestines , so it must have a high alkaline content. Tropical fish food is too acidic for their digestive system. It is true that goldfish will eat tropical fish food, but they will reap very little nutritional benefit from it. Over time, feeding tropical fish food to goldfish will seriously affect their health and longevity. You must feed a designated Goldfish Food for best results.
Be very careful with your feedings. Overfeeding, especially in a small goldfish bowl, will cause the water to become cloudy and smelly from the accumulation of decayed food. This water will, in time, become harmful to the fish. When feeding, remember that less is best. A safe recommendation is to feed 2 to 4 pieces of flake or pellet food every other day.
Cleaning Your Goldfish Bowl
Since a goldfish bowl generally does not have a filtration system, you must be very careful when cleaning the bowl. Every 5 to 7 days, the fish keeper will need to pour the top 2/3 of the bowl water into a clean (uncontaminated) plastic or glass container. Then, carefully transfer the goldfish, using a net, into this holding container while the rest of the bowl is cleaned.
The remaining fish bowl water should be discarded. Once the bowl is empty, it can be rinsed out with fresh tap water. Never use glass cleaner, or any other chemical to clean the bowl, as these, even in trace amounts are toxic to the goldfish.
Once the fish bowl has been rinsed, 1/3 of the bowl can be filled with fresh tap water. Remember, the water must be conditioned to remove chlorine and chloramine. The water should be at room temperature or cooler. Goldfish are cold water fish, and prefer water temperature in the low 60’s. Carefully, pour both the goldfish and the old water back into the fish bowl. It is best to only fill the bowl 3/4 full. This allows for a larger water surface area, providing your fish with more oxygen. Your fish will breathe easier.
Goldfish - A Brief History
Although records of the domestication of the goldfish date back over 1,000 years, it was during the Chinese Ming Dynasty (1368 to 1643 A.D.) that goldfish became so popular that they were taken from their natural pools and maintained indoors in the beautiful pottery bowls of this period. In the 1500’s, the goldfish made its appearance in Japan. In both China and Japan, distinct species were developed to reflect the tastes of the two cultures. The Chinese developed extreme forms: the lion head, the celestial, the telescope, and the pom pom to name a few. The Japanese on the other hand directed their efforts toward developing graceful “swimming flowers” with long fins and colors that are best appreciated when viewed from above. Today, goldfish enthusiasts have an amazing array of colors, scale structures, and body shapes from which to choose.
All The Fish On This Page Are Available Instore.
http://www.segrestfarms.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.search&Fish-Pictures-Fish-Information-And-Facts.htm
http://www.segrestfarms.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.search&Fish-Pictures-Fish-Information-And-Facts.htm
 |
Male Congo Tetra $3.99 An incredibly beautiful fish, the timid Congo Tetra is the most gorgeous of the true African Characins.Along with its fluorescent colors its tail fin develops into a most beautiful feathery appendage. It is a peaceful schooling fish and needs a large aquarium, not only to provide plenty of room to swim around, but to thrive and develop their full beauty as well. The Congo Tetra prefers soft, peat filtered water and a darker substrate. They are most comfortable in an aquarium with lower light levels which can be provided by floating plants. The beautiful rainbow colors of this fish will also show off best in lower light levels. These fish are easily frightened by aggressive tank mates and loud noises. Do not tap on the glass! These fish are also timid eaters and may wait for you to leave the aquarium before they will feed. Blue Rams $7.99  Golden Bristlenose Plecostomus $15.99 You can mix these little guys with North, Central, and South American cichlids. Because of their set of frog stabbers that poke out their cheeks and their tendency to hide during the day, you can probably mix them with African cichlids also.  Bleeding Heart Tetra $2.99 Very peaceful fish. Make a great tank mate for corydoras and other bottom dwelling species. They are definately best kept in shoals of 5-6. Males are larger and have a blue dorsal fin. Females are thicker bodied and have a reddish tip on their dorsal fin. Provide plenty of plants if it is your intention to breed these hardy yet timid fish.  Dragon Goby $10.99 Dragon Gobies like caves and rocky hiding places, and enjoy a good roll in the sand. They are very active for a goby, not in the least skittish.  Black Phantom $3.99 The Black Phantom Tetra is a very peaceful, schooling fish that comes from the regions of Central Brazil. Receiving its name from its black translucent coloring, the hardy, Black Phantom Tetra is great for any community aquarium. Males of the species will have a higher dorsal fin, and display a more brilliant coloration  The White Cloud Mountain Minnow originates from the gorges of the White Cloud Mountains of China. Golden and long-finned varieties have been developed. This easy-to-keep minnow will do well in the community aquarium with other peaceful fish. If kept in a school of eight or more, the White Cloud will be more active and colorful.  Flounder $8.99 The Freshwater Sole pictured here is a freshwater member of a family that occurs worldwide. Most sole fish species of live in the ocean but a few smaller ones live in fresh or brackish water. These are an interesting species that will do quite well in an aquarium if given the correct environment. The intriguing anatomy of sole fish is that they are flattened, or compressed laterally, and they swim on their side on the bottom of their environment. One of their eyes migrates to the side which points up, leaving the other side or 'bottom' side blind, making for a very unique looking fish. Sole fish are also referred to as flounder fish, and because of their flat and somewhat rounded 'tongue-like' appearance, they are also called Tonguefish. Beyond these designations, the additional names of Pan Sole and Hogchoker Sole are used for the three species that are occasionally imported. The species discussed here Brachirus panoides, which comes from Southeast Asia, and Brachirus pan, imported from Bangladesh and India, are both referred to as Pan Soles. The third species Trinectes maculatus, which originates in North America, is called the Hogchoker Sole. Fire Eel $16.99 The Fire Eel is a larger freshwater eel species that originates from warm flood plains and streams of southeast Asia including: Vietnam, Thailand, Cambodia, Indonesia and Laos  Managuense AKA Jaguar Cichlids $9.99 Native to various ponds, lakes, streams and rivers of Central America, Cichlasoma managuense, reclassified as Nandopsis managuensis, reclassified as Parachromis managuensis, and finally reclassified as Parapetenia managuensis, is also well known as the Managuense, Aztec Cichlid and the Jaguar Cichlid. A beautiful, but extremely aggressive, territorial, and predatory species with a rather unique look; Jaguar Cichlids are named for their gold to bronze scales with black markings; their pattern gives their bodies the appearance of a Jaguar pelt ("Beauty and the Beast" in itself). They have translucent fins with iridescent, gold and black patterns that can also contain beautiful, blue-green hues. A male Jaguar Cichlid will grow out to be larger than a female and will develop longer, pointed dorsal and anal fins and will have a more intense coloration than a female.  Redtail Catfish Med $59.99 The Redtail Catfish is arguably one of the most popular and recognizable species of large freshwater bottom dwelling species found within the aquarium trade. Despite their very large adult size, Redtail Cats have been imported from South America into the aquarium trade for some time and have reached an almost iconic position among "monster fish keeping" aquarists. The overall popularity of the Redtail Catfish is due to a combination of its unique appearance and active disposition within the aquarium. Redtail Catfish have a broad head that gracefully tapers back towards its brightly colored red tail. Their body is a dark gray / black coloration with a white underbelly and white stripe on the middle and rear portions of its body. Redtail Catfish also buck the trend of many aquarium catfish species in that they are active swimmers that will patrol the aquarium looking for a meal or just investigating their surroundings. Redtail Catfish are not picky eaters and will essentially consume any meaty food that fits in their mouths. However, not all foods contain the same level of nutrition, thus it is important to feed the Redtail Cat a balanced diet of nutritional foods. Redtail Catfish living in the wild will make up the vast majority of their diet from eating fish and crustaceans. In the home aquarium they can be live fish & crustaceans, worms, meaty based frozen or pellet foods ranging from krill and fish flesh to pellets specifically made for large Catfish and other large freshwater carnivores.  Zebra Obliquidens $9.99 The Zebra Obliquidens (Astatotilapia latifasciata) is a popular Lake Victoria species of African Cichlid, that is popular within the aquarium hobby due to its colorful appearance and peaceful disposition. This species is also bread heavily in the aquarium trade as it is heavily threatened in the wild and may be nearing extinction. While the females of the species are attractive in their own right, they lack the bursts of red and yellow that the males posses. It is the bursts of red and yellow on the belly of the fish with the vertical black bars over top a silver body that makes this fish very distinguishable amongst its peers. Zebra Obliquidens are omnivores (eating primarily the diet of an insectivore), thus they will eat a variety of foods ranging from plankton and insects to more meaty foods including: krill, mysis shrimp, daphnia, chichlid flake, cichlid pellets and other meaty (protein rich) preparations. This species is a hardy eater, that should be fed multiple times a day a diet that is rich in protein and as varied as possible, in order to provide balanced nutrition and promote a healthy immune system. Zebra Obliquidens are prolific spawners that are easily bread within the aquarium environment. They will require a good sized aquarium of 125 gallons or greater, along with flat rocks or slate on which to lay their eggs. The females of the species will actually guard the fry for approximately 2 months after they are born, which means that the fry can be raised in the same aquarium as the parents. They should begin feeding almost immediately on baby brine shrimp or similar preparations and will grow quickly, reaching their distinctive shape and form in about a week.  Salvini Cichlid The Salvini Cichlid is brightly colored cichlid which is native to the many lakes and rivers of Central America. Salvini Cichlids are easy to care for and are a hardy species that can tolerate varying conditions and they don't require a large aquarium; they are suitable as mid-size cichlids for new hobbyists that are learning the basics as well as the more advanced hobbyist looking for a mid-sized, colorful species that can coexist with other aggressive cichlids. Salvini Cichlids require a tank of at least 55 gallons with a sandy to smooth gravel substrate and should be provided with driftwood, rock structures, caves and live plants for territory and hiding places.  Black Angles Sml $2.99 The Black Veil Angel hails from the warm temperate waters of the Amazon basin in South America, where it is found in calm waterways and flood plains. Black Veil Angels are found living in areas with losts of plants or tree roots, which they use for protection against larger fish species and as a place to hunt insect larvae and other foodstuffs. These days this species is more commonly tank bred in the United States and parts of Southern Asia, than collected from the wild. They have long been sought after in the aquarium hobby because of their brilliant black body coloration and long flowing fins. Their long fins mean that they should not be kept with fish species that will nip or tear their fins. Many "fin nipping" species can be kept easily with angelfish as long as the "fin nippers" are kept in groups of 4 or more, so that they will nip at each other and ignore the angelfish. In a small or medium sized aquarium the Black Veil Angel is best kept in a mated pair, in larger aquariums they can be kept in groups of 6 or more individuals.  Pictus cat  Redtail Shark $5.99 Redtail Sharks are known as much for their territorial aquarium behavior as their striking coloration and pleasing shark-like body shape. However, this should not keep a moderately experienced aquarium keeper from keeping the Redtail Shark in a medium to large community aquarium environment. This species will often claim large territories within the aquarium and will become quite aggressive towards other of its own kind or similarly shaped species like Rainbow Sharks. This aggressive nature can be mitigated by providing multiple areas in the aquarium that contain substantial driftwood, plants and rock formations to create various territories within the aquarium. Medium to Large community aquariums of 90 gallons or more that contain plenty of driftwood, plants and rock formations should be able to support Redtail Sharks and similarly sized and shaped specimens provided the aquarium has lots of aqua-scaping. Larger aquariums of 125 gallons or more that are heavily aqua-scaped with plants, driftwood and rock formations can easily support Redtail Sharks with other similar species like Rainbow Sharks. Redtail Sharks do very well with boisterous species like barbs, tetra and rainbowfish and will generally not bother smaller fish species as long as they are in a suitable aquarium setup. Redtail Sharks are very easy to feed as they will readily consume a large variety of meaty and plant-based foodstuffs. They will take food from the waters surface, the water column and even food resting on the aquarium substrate. It is best to feed this species a varied diet that contains a combination of meaty and vegetable flake and pellet foods, freeze-dried bloodworms and tubifex worms and even vegetable based pellets and wafers.  Fresh Water Snow Flake Eel. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_4/V4I2/Freshwater_eels/freshwater_eels.htm |
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